for the curious
KNOW HOW
· enamel is both a technology and an artistic craft ·
"I grew up in an environment where a kiln and enamel powder were standard equipment in the living room. Naturally, I later continued the family tradition of jewellery and enameling."
What is enamel?
enamel means - smooth, glossy.
Enamel is a glaze applied to a metal base. A skilled enamelist distinguishes between jewellery enamel and technical enamel. Unlike technical enamel, jewellery enamel offers more color shades, is more vibrant and is significantly more expensive.
The colors are divided into transparent, opaque, opals, fondants, and depending on whether they are hard or soft colors, they are combined in various ways to achieve different effects. The result is a magical blend of colors, and to achieve this, you need to have some knowledge of colors. Enamel powder is diluted with water before applying.
Enamel is appreciated for its gloss, hardness, and color fastness.
Water jet
preparation is key.
The designs for enamel pendants must first be converted into graphic curves because the water jet used for cutting is computer-controlled.
Enamel is typically applied to various metal bases such as gold, silver, or copper. I use a copper base.
To ensure the enamel reaches the edges of the copper base, you need to file down the sharp raised edges left by the water jet. Then, degrease the copper in a saturated vinegar and salt solution and wash with dish soap water, as the color would not stick to an oily surface.
Working with enamel
for enamel work, you need swatches or a brilliant memory.
The colors are assigned numbers by the manufacturer, and these need to be matched with one's own color swatch. Each enamelist creates their own swatches. It’s a process of anticipation, excitement, disappointment and joy as the colours eventually reveal themselves.
The firing temperature of enamel ranges from 700°C to 850°C, and the firing time is between 1-3 minutes. If you leave enamel in the oven for too long, the color will scorch.
Working with enamel is an alchemy, and experience is necessary. How the enamel turns out depends on many factors, including the firing time, humidity and even the weather.
Alchemy
with enamel, there are no certainties, and that’s how you must approach it.
The first question before enameling is: what effect do I want to achieve? Based on the color swatch, I choose the expected colors, and then it’s a purely spontaneous process governed by the theory of probability.
Copper shrinks differently from glassy enamel when cooled, and if the color is not applied on both sides, it can cause cracks.
I monitor the thickness of the application, the ideal dilution and characteristics of the color - whether it’s hard or soft - and adjust the oven temperature accordingly.
Before the enamel is finished, it goes through several layers of color application and multiple firings.
The enamel is fired at 850°
firing requires focus.
Before firing the enameled copper, I let it dry on a special pad, otherwise the color could chip or crack in the oven - the rapid evaporation of water in the oven can cause the steam to take the enamel with it.
The firing process occurs at high temperatures, often in just a few seconds, and at such moments, no one can enter my workspace.
If I left the enamel in the oven for too long, the color would scorch.
Once the firing is done, I let the enamel cool down and assess whether it is finished or needs further firing.
Final touches
smooth and finish the edges.
The edges of the finished enamel need to be smoothed with a micro-grinder and hand-polished with a copper brush until they are smooth to the touch, making it comfortable to wear on the body.
When polishing, dross flies everywhere, so I grind as much as I can at once because thorough cleaning is necessary. A metal splinter in the finger? Not pleasant.
At this stage, the enameled pendant is finished and ready to be turned into an amulet.
